In the previous article , we introduced Esmeralda Farm's Geisha as a top-class brand in the world, and the top brand among them is Esmeralda Special (ES).
Regardless of what the label says, there are probably many readers who have wondered what coffee tastes like.
This time, we ( CROWD ROASTER team) contacted BRISA & TIERRA, a trading company specializing in specialty coffee in Panama, and were able to receive a special portion of Esmeralda Special.
I would like to introduce that review, along with comments from Sou Yamaguchi, representative of BRISA & TIERRA, as well as more detailed information about Esmeralda Farm.
Regardless of what the label says, there are probably many readers who have wondered what coffee tastes like.
This time, we ( CROWD ROASTER team) contacted BRISA & TIERRA, a trading company specializing in specialty coffee in Panama, and were able to receive a special portion of Esmeralda Special.
I would like to introduce that review, along with comments from Sou Yamaguchi, representative of BRISA & TIERRA, as well as more detailed information about Esmeralda Farm.
Geisha cultivation at Esmeralda Farm
<The view of the Jaramillo farm. Tall trees that shade the short coffee trees grow thickly. It's a farm in a really rich forest.
Within Esmeralda Farm, there are three farms growing Geisha varieties. They are named Jaramillo, Cañas Verdes, and El Velo, and Jaramillo is the farm where the Peterson family, the owners of the farm, first discovered Geisha by chance. At this farm, which is always covered in fog, Geisha is planted in plots at an altitude of 1,600 to 1,700 meters, and some of the most representative lots of Esmeralda Geisha are produced.
In Caña Verde, Jaramillo is cultivated at a maximum height of 1,700m, while the cultivation area is even higher at around 2,000m, and the different microclimate from Jaramillo produces Geisha with a different personality. By the way, this Caña Verde land was included when the Peterson family first acquired Esmeralda Farm in the late 1960s. However, at that time, the farm was a pasture for beef cattle, and coffee cultivation did not begin in earnest until the 1990s.
Elvero is the newest farm in Esmeralda, and in addition to Geisha , many other varieties are planted on an experimental basis.
“Furthermore, each farm is divided into more than 10 sections, each with different slopes and geographical conditions, so in total, there are dozens of sections each producing lots with their own characteristics.” (Mr. Yamaguchi)
In Caña Verde, Jaramillo is cultivated at a maximum height of 1,700m, while the cultivation area is even higher at around 2,000m, and the different microclimate from Jaramillo produces Geisha with a different personality. By the way, this Caña Verde land was included when the Peterson family first acquired Esmeralda Farm in the late 1960s. However, at that time, the farm was a pasture for beef cattle, and coffee cultivation did not begin in earnest until the 1990s.
Elvero is the newest farm in Esmeralda, and in addition to Geisha , many other varieties are planted on an experimental basis.
“Furthermore, each farm is divided into more than 10 sections, each with different slopes and geographical conditions, so in total, there are dozens of sections each producing lots with their own characteristics.” (Mr. Yamaguchi)
Towards more segmented “nano lots”
<Coffee beans drying on the patio. At Esmeralda Farm, each lot is strictly controlled in each process, so the finished coffee has a different taste and flavor depending on the lot.
In the first place, until the early 1990s, there was no concept of separating Panamanian coffee into different varieties, and all coffee was shipped together to the general public.
When the Panama Specialty Coffee Association was established and competitions began to be held, coffee was produced in some places by variety, but at Esmeralda Farm, even more careful verification was carried out. Ta.
Geisha that was discovered at the Jaramillo farm was planted at a higher altitude, and the harvested cherries in each section of the farm were carefully selected, evaluated, and the lots to be presented at the fair were determined.
The ``Jaramillo Special'' created in this way was sold at the 2004 auction ``Best of Panama'' for an unprecedented price at the time.
After this success, the farm further separated its lots and created three brands: Esmeralda Special, Private Collection, and Geisha 1500.
Esmeralda Special is a collection that has a cupping score of 91pt or more at Geisha , which is cultivated at an altitude of 1,600 to 1,800m.
Furthermore, in recent years, there has been a move towards further segmentation.
``In the past year or two, Esmeralda has focused on developing nano-lot products that are smaller in lot size than before, more segmented, and bring out the individuality of each product.
There are differences between lots depending on the harvest date, and I think the timing of harvest is determined based on the ripeness of the cherries and the weather conditions at that time, and the subsequent process is adjusted depending on the condition of the cherries." Mr. Yamaguchi)
When the Panama Specialty Coffee Association was established and competitions began to be held, coffee was produced in some places by variety, but at Esmeralda Farm, even more careful verification was carried out. Ta.
Geisha that was discovered at the Jaramillo farm was planted at a higher altitude, and the harvested cherries in each section of the farm were carefully selected, evaluated, and the lots to be presented at the fair were determined.
The ``Jaramillo Special'' created in this way was sold at the 2004 auction ``Best of Panama'' for an unprecedented price at the time.
After this success, the farm further separated its lots and created three brands: Esmeralda Special, Private Collection, and Geisha 1500.
Esmeralda Special is a collection that has a cupping score of 91pt or more at Geisha , which is cultivated at an altitude of 1,600 to 1,800m.
Furthermore, in recent years, there has been a move towards further segmentation.
``In the past year or two, Esmeralda has focused on developing nano-lot products that are smaller in lot size than before, more segmented, and bring out the individuality of each product.
There are differences between lots depending on the harvest date, and I think the timing of harvest is determined based on the ripeness of the cherries and the weather conditions at that time, and the subsequent process is adjusted depending on the condition of the cherries." Mr. Yamaguchi)
“Montanya 2SN” which I cupped this time
I cupped several lots of Esmeralda Special that were subdivided in this way, but first I would like to introduce them here. This is from the Montaña section of the Caña Verde Farm, and as mentioned above, the lots are becoming smaller, and the harvest area for the lot below is only 0.5 ha.
The process (selection) is natural, but Geisha of Esmeralda Farm initially only carried out wash selection. However, due to the growing demand for natural products, this practice has started to take place.
The naturals in the Montaña section are famous for being sold at the 2017 Best of Panama for a world record price of $601 per pound (successful bids were made by Saza Coffee and others).
The process (selection) is natural, but Geisha of Esmeralda Farm initially only carried out wash selection. However, due to the growing demand for natural products, this practice has started to take place.
The naturals in the Montaña section are famous for being sold at the 2017 Best of Panama for a world record price of $601 per pound (successful bids were made by Saza Coffee and others).
Montaña 2SN
Lot name: Montaña Montaña harvest farm: Cañas Verdes Cañas Verdes area: Cañas Verdes Cañas Verde harvest area altitude: 1,690mts
Process: Natural Annual precipitation (estimated): 3,500mm
Average temperature: 16-23℃ during the day, 10-15℃ at night
Average tree age: 16 years Lot harvest range: 0.5ha
Harvest date: 2022/1/7
After harvesting, it is dried on African beds for 47 days.
Lot name: Montaña Montaña harvest farm: Cañas Verdes Cañas Verdes area: Cañas Verdes Cañas Verde harvest area altitude: 1,690mts
Process: Natural Annual precipitation (estimated): 3,500mm
Average temperature: 16-23℃ during the day, 10-15℃ at night
Average tree age: 16 years Lot harvest range: 0.5ha
Harvest date: 2022/1/7
After harvesting, it is dried on African beds for 47 days.
What are the results of cupping?
<Flavor>
Floral, peach, melon, jasmine
From the moment the beans are ground, a floral scent reminiscent of jasmine spreads out.
The numerous fruit flavors that overflow with just one sip are of great quality.
Centered around a rich sweetness reminiscent of ripe melon and peach, Geisha 's unique lemon and citrus flavors balance out the overall flavor, creating a nutritious taste.
It has a thick, honey-like texture and a clear mouthfeel. A cup with a sweet aftertaste that lasts forever.
As the Esmeralda Special title suggests, it is truly the world's best Geisha natural.
Floral, peach, melon, jasmine
From the moment the beans are ground, a floral scent reminiscent of jasmine spreads out.
The numerous fruit flavors that overflow with just one sip are of great quality.
Centered around a rich sweetness reminiscent of ripe melon and peach, Geisha 's unique lemon and citrus flavors balance out the overall flavor, creating a nutritious taste.
It has a thick, honey-like texture and a clear mouthfeel. A cup with a sweet aftertaste that lasts forever.
As the Esmeralda Special title suggests, it is truly the world's best Geisha natural.
This time, we have released a special product that uses cupped Montaña 2SN roasted by Japan Roasting Champion Yoshiyuki Nakamura !
The world's best Geisha x Japanese champion roasting!
This is a special coffee that is only available for this occasion.
HIROTO USUKURA
