In the previous article , we introduced Geisha from Esmeralda Farm as one of the world's top brands, and among them, Esmeralda Special (ES) is the top brand.

Regardless of the sales pitch, I'm sure many readers are wondering what this coffee tastes like.

This time, we ( CROWD ROASTER team) contacted BRISA & TIERRA, a Panamanian trading company specializing in specialty coffee, and were able to get a special share of Esmeralda Special.

We would like to introduce this review, along with comments from BRISA & TIERRA representative, Muneo Yamaguchi, and more detailed information about Esmeralda Farm.

<A view of the Jaramillo farm. Tall trees grow thick, providing shade for the shorter coffee trees. It's a farm nestled in a truly lush forest.>

 

Esmeralda Farm has three estates cultivating Geisha grapes: Jaramillo, Cañas Verdes, and El Velo. Jaramillo is where the Peterson family, the owners of the farm, first discovered Geisha by chance. Perpetually shrouded in mist, the estate has Geisha plants planted in plots at altitudes between 1,600 and 1,700 meters, producing some of Esmeralda's most representative Geisha lots.

While Jaramillo's maximum altitude is around 1,700m, Caña Verde's cultivation zone is even higher, reaching up to around 2,000m, and its different microclimate from Jaramillo's produces Geisha with different characteristics. Incidentally, Caña Verde was included in the Esmeralda farm when the Peterson family first acquired it in the late 1960s. However, at that time the farm was used as a beef cattle pasture, and coffee cultivation did not begin in earnest until the 1990s.

Elbero is the newest farm in Esmeralda, and in addition to Geisha , many other experimental varieties are planted.

"Furthermore, each farm is divided into more than 10 sections based on differences in slope and geographical conditions, so in total, dozens of sections produce their own unique lots," says Yamaguchi.

<Coffee beans drying on the patio. At Esmeralda Farm, each batch is strictly controlled at each stage, so each batch of coffee has a different taste and flavor.>

 

In fact, until the early 1990s, there was no concept of separating varieties of Panamanian coffee, and it was all shipped together to the general public.

When the Panama Specialty Coffee Association was established and competitions began to be held, some areas began to produce coffee by variety, but Esmeralda Farm carried out even more careful inspection.

Geisha discovered at the Jaramillo farm was planted in plots at higher altitudes, and the cherries harvested from each plot on the farm were carefully selected and evaluated to determine which lots would be sent to the competition.

The "Jaramillo Special" created in this way was sold at the then-record price at the "Best of Panama" auction in 2004.

After this success, the estate further separated its lots and created three brands: Esmeralda Special, Private Collection, and Geisha 1500.

The Esmeralda Special lineup includes a collection of Geisha grown at an altitude of 1,600 to 1,800 meters, with a cupping score of 91 points or higher.

In recent years, there has been a move towards even greater segmentation.

"Esmeralda has become smaller in lot size than before, more subdivided, and the focus has been on more nano-lot development over the past year or two, with each individuality coming to the forefront.

The batches vary depending on the harvest date, and the timing of the harvest must be determined based on the ripeness of the cherries and the weather conditions at the time. I think the subsequent process is adjusted depending on the condition of the cherries once they are harvested." (Yamaguchi)

 

 

We had the opportunity to cup several of these subdivided Esmeralda Special lots, but we'll start with this one. It comes from the Montaña section of Caña Verde Farm. As mentioned above, the lots are becoming smaller, and the harvest area for the lot below is only 0.5 hectares.

The process (selection) is natural, but initially Esmeralda Farm only used wash selection for their Geisha . However, due to the growing demand for natural products, they have begun to use this process.

Natural coffee from the Montaña plot is famous for being sold at the 2017 Best of Panama auction for $601 per pound, the highest price in the world (winning bidder: Saza Coffee, among others).

 

Montaña 2SN
Lot name: Montaña Harvesting farm: Cañas Verdes Region: Cañas Verdes Harvesting site altitude: 1,690mts
Process: Natural Annual precipitation (estimated): 3,500mm
Average temperature: 16-23°C during the day, 10-15°C at night
Average vine age: 16 years Lot harvest area: 0.5ha
Harvest date: January 7, 2022
After harvesting, the beans are dried in African beds for 47 days.

 

<Flavor>
Floral, peach, melon, jasmine

The moment the beans are ground, a floral scent reminiscent of jasmine spreads.
The numerous fruit flavors that burst forth with just one sip are truly of high quality.
The rich sweetness reminiscent of ripe melon and peach is at the core, and Geisha 's unique lemon and citrus flavors balance the overall flavor, creating a delicious taste.
A thick, honey-like texture and a clear mouthfeel. A cup with a sweet, lingering aftertaste.
As the name Esmeralda Special suggests, it is the world's finest Geisha natural.

 

This time, the Montagna 2SN that was cupped has been roasted by Yoshiyuki Nakamura , the Japanese roasting champion, and a special product has been released!

 

 

The world's best Geisha x Japanese champion roaster!

This is a special coffee that is only available on this occasion.

 

*This item is sold out