LEAVES COFFEE Roaster Ishii Yasuo x Barista Takayuki Ishitani “Esmeralda Special” cupping conversation!

This is a truly special project in which a micro-lot of Esmeralda Farm, which is synonymous with Panama Geisha , and its pinnacle brand "Esmeralda Special" will be roasted by one of Japan's leading roasters participating in CROWD ROASTER . In progress at CROWD ROASTER .

The second part of this project, `` Geisha Washed Trapiche 65AS'', was roasted by a roaster with the concept of ``from a local roastery to the world'' and who is working to embody that concept. This is Ishii Yasuo from LEAVES COFFEE ROASTERS .

In order to tell you about this special Geisha and the appeal of Yasuo 's roasting, we will bring you a conversation between Barista Takayuki Ishii, Japan Champion Barista, who serves as an advisor for CROWD ROASTER , and Ishii Yasuo .

We had a chat while cupping roasted coffee at LEAVES COFFEE ROASTERS .
(Interviewer: CROWD ROASTER Hiroto Usukura )

Impressions on cupping

Yasuo : There are many flavors that are not found in the "Private Collection" (Esmeralda Farm Geisha , which is one rank below Esmeralda Special). It has a strong jasmine feel. What about Mr. Ishitani?

Ishitani: First of all, my impression is that the flavor comes out properly. It's easy to sense the ingredients in the sense that the flavor comes and the sweetness comes.

Yasuo : ...It has a honeyed taste, like coffee blossom. As the temperature dropped, their expressions changed as well. The flavor aroma has calmed down a bit, and the sweetness is starting to show.

Ishitani: I think the “color” of the flavor has changed. My impression is that it ranges from greens such as muscat to orange, red, and even a little purple.

Usukura : LEAVES COFFEE also sells Panama Geisha from other farms, but is Esmeralda Geisha different from that?

Yasuo : I think it's completely different. I thought that what I heard and my impression after roasting it myself was that it is trendy these days to improve quality through processing (production processing, selection), and Esmeralda Farm's impression is that There is no. Because it is authentic washed and natural, I think Esmeralda is the easiest to feel Geisha 's original material among Panama.

Usukura : What kind of coffee is this Geisha Washed in one word?

Ishitani: Jasmine , right? Rather than conveying too much information, I think it would be better to simply drink the drink and realize, ` `This is Geisha .''
This seems like the basics of Geisha . There are various Geisha out there, but it is positioned as a place where you can reaffirm the basics. This is a farm that coffee lovers should visit at least once.

Yasuo : Mr. Ishitani also said to me, ``This is the Panama Geisha Washed'' coffee. I think this is a coffee that will help people who are wondering, "What is Geisha ?"

`` Even though it's coffee, you can feel the floral flavor, and the sweetness of honey or syrup. Please try that experience .''

It's a quality-controlled Geisha washed product that has a lot number, so I think it can be enjoyed both as an introductory version if you want to learn about Geisha washed in an authentic way, and even if you're an expert on coffee. .

It's a coffee that you can feel without thinking too much about it, and I think I was able to roast it in a way that allows you to feel that way.

Delicate roasting where the flavor changes in 0.5 seconds

Usukura : What points did you pay attention to when roasting?

Yasuo : When it comes to roasting, the beans are very delicate, so if you go even slightly beyond the (optimal) roast, the flavor will disappear.

Geisha contains a fragrant substance called limonene, but it is extremely sensitive to heat. Esmeralda's Geisha Washed is delicate to begin with, so this time I tried to bake it for both beginners and experts while preserving the limonene. However, I would like you to drink it without thinking too much about it.

Usukura : When you actually bake a sample and then bake the actual batch, you'll only be able to bake it two or three times, but was there any drama involved?

Yasuo : I only have two chances, but if I'm going to bake it, I want Geisha to be easy to understand, and I want to improve the quality of the roast.

When I baked the sample, the beans had a lot of moisture, and when I measured the values, I understood that the cherry had a high sugar content. However, when I actually tried making it, it turned out to be better coffee than I expected. So, when it's bursting at the end of roasting, it's really lively. It crackles and the temperature graph drops rapidly, so I try to keep up the heat and apply more heat, but it's very difficult to do this without freaking out.

Moreover, the point of applying fire = deliciousness is getting narrower and narrower. You have to heat it to get the flavor, but it only takes about 0.5 seconds. If there is a delay of one second, the flavor will be gone, that's what I'm talking about.

While smelling the aroma of the beans, after the beans exploded, I quickly sniffed them about twice a second. I was very careful during this time.
This time I only have two more challenges, and the coffee was better than I expected, so I guess I'm also challenging myself.

If this was a production roast to be served at a restaurant, I wouldn't be so challenged as I would have to heat it up a little more to make it sweet and delicious.

If you get the roast right, you can age it and drink it for a very long time. You can still drink it deliciously even after two months, and I'm sure the taste will change again.

The cleanest cup you can enjoy over a long period of time

Usukura : Specifically, what kind of changes do you think you'll notice?

Yasuo : As time passes, the flavor you pick up from your nose and mouth decreases a little, but the aroma that enters your nose increases. When you open the package and smell only the bean side, and it smells very sweet, it means that time has passed, and when you drink it as a liquid coffee, the flavor itself has weakened, but the aroma is information that only comes through your nose. Because of that, it also tastes delicious.

Usukura : You can take quite a while to drink it.

Yasuo : That's right. I think it would be better to drink this kind of coffee one cup a week over a period of several weeks, and see how different it was from last week. I think it's like drinking today and tomorrow.

Ishitani: From a barista's perspective, Yasuo 's Esmeralda is very clean. I think you can get a sense of the question that is often asked in the coffee industry: ``What is a clean cup?''

Actually, I think it's hard to understand what constitutes a clean cup, but of course it has a nice texture at the beginning, and the aftertaste is very nice, but it's not so clean that it loses its flavor, but has a very long aftertaste. It's a sweet, long, and beautiful coffee. This is partly due to the quality of the green coffee beans, but I don't think it's possible to find coffee that is as beautiful as this despite its flavor. That is Yasuo 's technical ability.

Yasuo : Thank you. It's easy to bake in a way that only shortens the flavor when you want a clean finish. However, it is very difficult to achieve a sweet and long aftertaste, so I'm glad that Mr. Ishitani caught on to what I was thinking of doing as well.

What are the tips for hand drip extraction?

Usukura : I think most of the people who buy this time will enjoy it as a hand-drip drink, but is there anything I should be careful about?

Yasuo : At LEAVES COFFEE, the ratio of coffee to water is approximately 1:16 to 1:15. The temperature of the water starts at 90 degrees and goes up to 93 degrees, but if you want to enjoy the flavor of this coffee, you may want to use a higher water temperature and brew it earlier. The total extraction time is 2 to 3 minutes, and I think it's delicious even if you pull it for about 3 minutes. There are 4 to 5 pours, and the brewing time is more relevant than the number of pours. The longer it is, the more your body will come out, and the shorter it will be a little lighter.

Ishitani: There's no need to rely on anyone else for taste standards, and because Geisha is so special, there's no need to change the extraction method. You won't know the difference unless you brew it the same way you always do. One thing to keep in mind is the ratio of beans to hot water, or concentration. If you think it's too dark or too light, try changing the ratio and find your best balance.

Yasuo 's delicate and powerful coffee

Usukura : Yasuo , what kind of taste is important to you?

Yasuo : For me, the main premise is that it's sweet and clean, and I think I'd be lucky if it had a flavor or aroma. We focus on sweetness, beauty, and good texture.

Usukura : Personally, I was very excited to be able to get Esmeralda's washed version. I was worried about who should bake this and how, so I decided that Yasuo would be more suited to the washed style rather than the natural style.

Yasuo : Thank you for choosing me (lol). That's right; I prefer washed for both personal drinking and baking, and it's easier to control the aroma.

Usukura : From your perspective, Mr. Ishitani, what kind of image does Mr. Yasuo have?

Ishitani: I think this roast hits the perfect spot: it has a great aroma and texture, but it's also clean. It's delicate but has power. Normally, I tend to get a stronger impression of one or the other, but Yasuo 's coffee has both, so I get the impression that he researches and verifies it a lot and then brings it out with pinpoint accuracy. I think you can really feel Yasuo 's personality in this roast.
Yasuo also said that roasting " Geisha Washed Trapiche 65AS" was a challenge.
As a result of working harder than usual, we have created a coffee that has the most exquisite balance of aroma, flavor, and texture, and brings out the delicateness of the ingredients to the fullest, allowing you to enjoy the changes over a longer period of time.
If you are talking about Geisha , you should try this gem of Esmeralda Geisha at least once. Experience the scent and taste that will change your life.



Takayuki Ishitani
Won the Japan Barista Championship (JBC) twice, in 2017 and 2019. Won 4th place at the World Barista Championship 2022 (WBC), where he participated as a representative of Japan. He has a wide range of activities including barista development and training, shop direction, serving coffee at events, and holding seminars. CROWD ROASTER advisor.

Ishii Yasuo
The company started its roasting business in 2019 with the concept of "From a local roastery to the world," and operates three machines: Probat UG-15, Giesen W6A, and Stronghold S7X. This is the first time in Japan that we have been nominated in the Notable Roaster category of the American coffee media ``Sprudge'' for the second consecutive year. At the roastery, which is visited by coffee lovers from Japan and abroad as well as local residents of all ages, you can enjoy world-class flavors and experiences that specialize in extraordinary experiences in everyday life.